Tilcara

This small pueblo has proven too intoxicating to escape. We almost didn´t stop here at all. We almost headed straight to the Bolivian border from Jujuy. But we did stop here, and the days started drifting by. It´s easy when there´s so many simple pleasures and explorations to fill them up from sunrise to sunset. And in this colorful valley, the rise and fall of the sun seem to last for hours each day, the tall mountains hiding that big ball of fire though still allowing enough light to dance a thousand different colors on the rocks and in the sky. The middle of the day is hot, though not unbearably so, and best spent lounging in the shade with conversation, maté, writing, and juggling. Our Spanish is damn-near conversational at this point and our maté etiquette is almost at Porteño standards. Leo (our Basque juggling friend) is a great juggler and has taught us lots of great new tricks. He learned the round-a-bout in less than an hour and likes Lebn´s slack-line so much, he´s going to Jujuy to buy one.
We´ve spent a great portion of our time here with him as he is currently living here to be close to his mother, and a porteña (a native of Buenos Aires) theater/opera student named Carla. The four of us have explored areas all around town and there are a great many to explore. Walking through the quiet town is satisfying enough, though the natural beauty that engulfs it is all within walking distance. A narrow, steep canyon called El Garganta del Diabolo, a colorful cemetery with and incredible view of the valley, and a small, lazy lagoon with ducks I´ve never seen before and the occasional local riding by on horseback. Last night we ascended a nearby mountain to watch the sunset and get our most spectacular view of the town and the valley so far. There´s an old fort, a virtually unconquerable habitation of the indigenous peoples that have populated this area for thousands of years, just outside of town called Pucara, that seems to be the main tourist draw, though I wonder if most tourists know its best viewed from above. With the dimming light, and a slight mist, the whole valley almost seemed like a mirage, but from our vantage, we could here dogs conversing in all parts of the quiet little town, adding the slightest hint of realism to our dreamy position.
All of these wonderful things aside though, I think that today is the day we leave this town. Lebn went on a little spirit quest last night, into the wild with nothing more than a sleeping bag and a pocket knife, and, assuming he hasn´t been eaten by Pumas, when he returns, we pack up and head to the bus station to gain passage to Bolivia. We´re told that Bolivia has a very similar vibe to Tilcara, but its cheaper, which makes us wonder if, once we´re there, we´ll ever be able to leave. Things are slowing down the closer we get to the center of this great continent, and I´m feeling pretty comfortable with that. It´s easy to see how people end up travelling down here for years. But fear not loved ones, we´re slow, but we´re steady, and we long to see you all again. But it might make things a little easier if you´d just get your sweet asses down here to join us. We love you all.